Ever since we arrived at Green Turtle Cay this year, the wind has been howling out of the ENE at 25 knots. Those are bad conditions for rounding Whale Cay in order to get further south. So we hung around the northern Abacos for awhile.

After three days in New Plymouth (Green Turtle) we moved a few miles north to Manjack Cay for two days. Manjack was uninhabited until Bill and Leslie Harrington bought 50 acres there, built a beautiful solar powered house, and planted hydroponic gardens and fruit trees. Having been cruisers themselves, they welcome all visitors. Instead of No Trespassing, the signs read "Please leash your dog, pet chickens roaming" and "Ocean beach, this way". Along their coconut palm beach are lawn chairs to relax in while gazing out at your boat anchored in their cove. Bill and Leslie were away when we were there but other cruisers were looking after the place for them. Sally and I followed the two mile trail to the ocean side where, even inside the reefs, the surf was too rambunctious for swimming. Like most other visitors there, we gathered up a bucket load of plastic trash the ocean had thrown back onto the beach. We took a few key limes and fallen oranges (it's expected and welcomed) from their very productive tress and split some coconuts using their tools. As Sally said, Bill and Leslie created a paradise and chose to share it. How wonderful. Our anchorage neighbors, John and Kathi on Makani, self described hunter-gatherers, had caught two more lobsters than they could use so gave them to us for our dinner. It's that kind of place.

We sailed further north to Allans-Pensacola, once two separate cays now joined together by a long ago hurricane. The island has been uninhabited since the missile tracking station was abandoned. We dinghied to the well trod path to the ocean side where the signing tree hangs mementos left by dozens of cruisers, including us. Unfortunately, the large ball on which we recorded names and date with a "permanent" marker was wiped clean. The next day we beat (just like real sailors) back to Green Turtle, into 25 knot winds gusting 30, stopping at Powell Cay for lunch.

Wednesday gave us a slight, temporary lessening of the wind so we grabbed the chance and escaped around Whale Cay with winds ENE at 18-23. The green water (20 feet deep) where the surf is forced upward was rowdy. Under sail it's not that bad. Once in the blue water (40-50 feet) it was quite comfortable again. Back inside we kept sailing over flat water to Marsh Harbour, the "big city" of the Abacos.

There's a big anchorage at Marsh that's usually, this time of year, filled with dozens of visiting boats. When we arrived there only three others. Those who had been here earlier had moved on and there had been no new arrivals for many days. Most boats don't stay long, just enough to do shopping and laundry. That’s what we’ll do before heading south to Royal Island this weekend, skipping Hope Town and Man-O-War this time until our return.