Before leaving Marsh Harbour, we raided Maxwell's, the last truly US style supermarket we'll find for months, carrying away two canvas bags full of those things that will be scarce in the rest of the Bahamas that we'll be visiting. � The wind was still(!!) ENE at 20-25 kts when we left, giving us a fast sail to Tilloo Cay where we anchored in an almost deserted spot for an afternoon swim. � (Marsh Harbour isn't an ideal spot for swimming but the Bahamas are chock full of places where you can drop an anchor, jump over the side for a swim, then shower on the foredeck without even getting a bathing suit wet.)
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We decided on Sunday for the 55 mile ocean passage south to Royal Island. � That gave us another day to play around in the Abacos. � We sailed around the shalllow Tilloo Bank to Lynyard Cay and anchored in a nicely protected cove as spray from ocean waves broke over the top of the island. � At dawn we headed out through the still bumpy Little Harbour Cut then turned south once we were out to the better behaved deep water. � We sailed about half way and motor-sailed the rest as the combination of light winds astern and large swells kept rolling the wind out of the sails. � By 5:00 we were back inside and anchored in the lee of Royal Island.
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The resort at Melanie Beach on Royal Island was doing a good business from the sounds and lights pouring out of there. � We didn't go into Royal Island Harbour but a glance in from the outside showed no signs of construction starting up again there. � The story we heard is that the developer was killed in a helicopter crash. � God works in mysterious ways his wonders to perform.
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With threats of strong west and NW winds on the way, we sailed (launching our rarely used spinnaker) along the coast of Eleuthera to Hatchet Bay then wedged in through the narrow slit of an opening into Hatchet Bay Pond which has excellent protection from all wind directions. � (Anchorages protected to the west are scarce in the Bahamas.) � We had heard rumors that someone was trying to collect an "annual fee of $30" for use of the government moorings which had been free for years. � We stayed two nights and heard nothing about mooring fees. � We were the only boat in the pond until the schooner Liberty Clipper arrived. � It's a replica of John Hancock's tea smuggling ship and runs weekly charters out of Nassau to the out islands in the winter and does Boston harbor tours in the summer.

On Wednesday, after a night of 20-30 knot NW winds, we were back to NW 15-20 and sailed to Alabaster Bay, anchoring in the lee of Pelican Cay. � I didn't go ashore but saw no signs of life at Coco di Mama yet. � Marriott bought the pretty little resort a couple of years ago and seems to have no idea what to do with it. � The winds were still NW on Thursday giving us a slow broad reach to Rock Sound, stopping briefly at Governor's Harbour for a fresh loaf of coconut bread. � The winds have been between NW and NE for a week now and the forecast for the next week is the same - very unusual for the central Bahamas.
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Sally's birthday is today (Saturday). � My original plan was to be in Rock Sound for a birthday dinner in Pascal Burrows’ “Caribbean fusion” restaurant on the site that used to be Four Points. � A few days ago I heard that Pascal had moved to Cape Eleuthera so I booked a slip at the marina there. When we went ashore at Rock Sound, we saw that a new restaurant, Wild Orchids, had opened where Four Points and Pascal’s had been. That didn’t present much of a dilemma. We compromised on a birthday eve lunch at Wild Orchids (photo of the view) and dinner this evening with Pascal. We're now at the Cape Eleuthera Marina, my first time in a slip here though I once, years ago, anchored in the basin before the condos were occupied. It seems quite a well run place.

Last year was Sally's first full winter in the Bahamas so we were sort of in a tour guide and new visitor relationship. � For me, that was a bit like seeing places for the first time again which was a nice change. � This year we're returning to places we both now know so it's a more even relationship. � I like it this way even better.