And you're also right that it is a magical place.

We anchored in the small harbor, Hanga Piku. At the entrance are concrete walls, which we tied to, fore and aft because of the swell that rolls in there. If we could have stayed longer than the almost-week were were there, I might not have ever left. Links to our pictures, poor quality though they may be, is here: http://www.fototime.com/inv/DCC286BA5223331

The link to my log gives more of an idea of my delight with the place.