Cruising Sailors Forum Archive

Re: Maine for the first timer
In Response To: Maine for the first timer ()

You're in luck Craig. I wanted to have that info offline so I copied the thread into a Word document. Here it is:

Maine Cruising
Maine for the first-timer?
By:Larry - DH
Date: 1/5/2012, 6:51 am
Maine is on the bucket list, but never been there (except Portland by car). If we do this we would be approaching via the CCC. We would stage the boat to Buzzards Bay area, (e.g Onset or Marion) to best take advantage of a 10 or 12-day "window" to travel to Maine and back.
We prefer not to keep to rigid schedules and allow for variation based on the weather conditions.... I'm thinking we could harbor-hop up the coast and back, using different stops each way depending on the winds, but not repeating stops unless there's a reason, but I know some people do an overnighter to get as far east as they plan to go then work their way back in shorter hops. We cruise under power at 8 knots and can sail fast if enough wind, but would sail if we can do 4 or 5, so "planning speed" is 6 knots.
What would be an ideal furthest-point, and what are the "must" stops? We would enjoy a mix of sights, towns and secluded spots.
I'm convinced the best approach is to sail overnight to Penobscot Bay.
By:Tom Young
Date: 1/5/2012, 7:11 am
In Response To: Maine for the first-timer? (Larry - DH)
Sure I'm biased, but with good reason and experience. First Larry, there's not much difference, time/distance wise, to making landfall in southern Maine. With your boat, if you can hit a good southerly (odds are in your favor), it would be an easy overnight and a sweet sail.
Once you're in Penobscot Bay, wind direction and strength are not the issue they are on the coast. You can go up the bay, through the bay, around the bay, through various beautiful sails. And you can move through to the MDI area if you have the time even with winds that might keep you pinned down in southern Maine.
The old rule of thumb to allow 2 days going southwest to 1 day going Northeast is a good planning tool. This is the time to enjoy points south, always being ready to launch off on a north wind or better yet, a hot westerly off the land.
With your schedule, think about leaving the boat just in case. Take advantage of good trans options, planes, trains and buses from the Penobscot Bay area.(perhaps leave the boat in well protected Rockland for a return the following week). Also very good connections here for picking you up at the boat and getting you to nearby Owlshead airport or even Portland for the train or bus.
Penobscot Bay is an easy commute to points south thanks to these public trans options.
overnight to MDI and SW Harbor.
Then you can work your way back along the coast. For the most part the wind will be on your nose the whole way back. There is really nothing east of Bar Harbor but you could spend a month in Penobscot and Blue Hill bay area.
A bit on southern Maine
By:Tom Currier
Date: 1/5/2012, 7:18 am
In Response To: Maine for the first-timer? (Larry - DH)
Some would have you go direct from the Cape Cod area up to Penobscot Bay. If you wish to experience southern Maine, here are some suggestions working north;
Isles of Shoals or Portsmouth harbor. The shoals usually have moorings or you can drop anchor in the right spots. A nice island adventure. Contact me direct if going into Portsmouth for local river data.
Biddeford Pool is not to be missed, followed by Richmond Island (sshhh, don't tell anyone about that one). Next on to Portland where docking at DiMillo's is a nice in-town experience. Heading north, make sure to traverse Junk of Pork just outside of Jewell Island. It's nothing exciting, just a nice passage through a reef strewn but clearly marked area.
My reference is to Junk of Pork just outside of Jewell Island
By:Tom Currier
Date: 1/5/2012, 8:14 am
In Response To: Thanks Tom (Larry - DH)
Richmond Island is dicey......almost better approached at low tide. At high, the water can come over the breakwater making for a bit of a roll for a few hours.
You'll want to come in at the only entrance on the north side and find a spot close to the island's northwest shore. There's a spot called Little Cove that fit's one boat that affords the most protection but otherwise just find a spot anywhere along the shoreline 50 yards out from the beach.
Anchor in the green brushed in area in the attached image. The cove is narrow but works. Take note of soundings and tides.

biddeford pool
By:Larry - DH
Date: 1/5/2012, 1:43 pm
In Response To: A bit on southern Maine (Tom Currier)
looks like it might be a better stop than the I of S. About halfway between MDI and the CCC (about 100nm from the CCC), and maybe a better spot to get off the boat to stretch legs and meet some people.
Pen Bay/MDI area
By:JimF
Date: 1/5/2012, 11:05 am
In Response To: Maine for the first-timer? (Larry - DH)
I have been cruising in and around Penboscot Bay for about a dozen summers and have already previously compiled my own list of likes based on where I have been. Penobscot Bay is less crowded than places farther south. If you venture past Schoodic to the real Down East, it is even more isolated.
Use this information for what it is worth, one sailor's opinion:
This is an attempt at a quick and dirty cruising guide for the Penobscot Bay through the Mount Desert Island area of the Maine Coast. I shouldn’t be doing this because one of the things I like about the area is there are relatively few boats, and there are lots of great places you can go where you will not see anyone else. So don’t come to Downeast Maine if you want to have all available amenities wherever you go, because most of the places I will list have no amenities. There is fog to contend with, cantankerous winds (though we usually do have good wind), and constant dodging of lobster pots – you can’t imagine the density of the pots until you see Jericho Bay at high lobster season. The weather is generally pretty cold even in the summer. I have been sailing out of Bayside (Northport) in upper West Penobscot Bay for 7 years. The places discussed are places I have been to and like. I tend to like the more isolated spots and the uninhabited islands so bear that in mind. I have not spent as much time in the MDI area due to time constraints so I can’t say a whole lot about the area but I do know a little. I list below the places I think are worth visiting. I don’t have time to give a lot of detail, so get out your charts and a cruising guide (best is – A Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast - Taft/Rindlaub) to learn more about the places mentioned.
Eggemoggin reach : definitely plan to sail the reach either east or west
Center Harbor: even if you don’t stop here, take a spin through the harbor, if you love beautiful boats, You will usually find a W class boat or two.
Wooden Boat School: Very nice harbor, room to anchor and moorings are available. highly recommended, visit the school store, tour the campus a fun stop if you are into wooden boats and how they are made.
Bucks Harbor: beautiful spot, excellent marina with showers, great place in bad weather
Horseshoe Cove: a personal favorite, if you go in, take your dink all the way back (check the tides), and see the reversing falls
East Penobscot Bay
Pond/Western Island: these islands are just outside the western entrance to Eggemoggin reach. Either one makes for a great lunch stop, or spend a day.
Pickering Island: Southeast of Hog island and west of Little Deer Isle. This has a great protected cove with room, good holding, swimming and nice place to land
Barred Islands: The ones just off Butter Island. One of the prettiest places you could ever anchor (and quieter than Merchants row, the other prettiest place).
Castine: a great little town, old money, few tourists, and over 4 centuries of history (learn a little something you may not have known about Paul Revere), excellent harbor. Explore up the Bagaduce river, and nearby Holbrook island preserve. Great hideaway anchorages inside Holbrook island and also in Smith Cove off Castine
West Penobscot Bay
Gilkey Harbor: a run from Pendleton Point at the southern end of Islesboro through to the ferry dock at the West entrance of Gilkey Harbor is the sailing equivalent of 12 mile drive (the cliff walk) in Newport RI. It is beautiful, and if you envy the very rich you will turn green. Pay very close attention to your charts(low water) but don’t be afraid there is enough water to get through for almost any sailboat even at low tide. Make a lunch stop at Warren Island off of the Islesboro ferry dock, this is a state park with a dock, campsites, and some state owned guest moorings.
Rockland: big town (by Maine standards), big harbor, great jumping off point. Great restaurants, all cruising needs available. This is a unique mixture of a working commercial harbor and has only recently acquired some “yachting overtones”. Good public dock. Great old fashioned main street.
Muscle Ridge channel (Tenants harbor to Owls head) this is a pretty area to sail through, if it is not foggy, don’t miss it on the way north. There are a lot of potential island stops.
Monhegan Island: This is not really part of Penobscot Bay but sort of guards the southwestern entrance. Monhegan is a unique and interesting island with great art, and great hiking trails. Its rocky outside coast has cliffs that rivals Acadia park for beauty and crashing waves. There is a reason it has been an artists colony for over a century.
Camden: Crowded and somewhat “touristy” for Maine, but there are good reasons, it may be the most beautiful harbor town anywhere. Nearby Rockport is almost as pretty, but is smaller, when Andre the seal was alive, Rockport was a don’t miss.
Seal Harbor: about 2 or 3 mile north of the ferry dock on the west side of Islesboro there is a nice little harbor with some interesting sights.
Turtlehead: the very northern tip of Islesboro is a conservation area with a nice half mile trail from the neck around the tip of the island and back, it is worth it to land.
Bayside: this is a very old and well preserved Victorian summer community with a lot of history, well worth a visit. There is a dock but no facilities for cruisers except water. A one mile walk will get you to a convenience store.
Belfast: A great Maine town and becoming a good harbor for cruisers, is a good harbor but rolly when the winds are southeast and east. Everything you might want is within 3 blocks of the dock.
North Haven/Vinalhaven area:
The Fox island thorofare is a must sail even if you don’t stop anywhere.
Hurricane Sound is also an exciting sail with loads of islands and ledges, watch your chart closely.
The Reach between Greens Island and Vinalhaven is a nice sail
Pulpit Harbor: This is a great harbor, there are lots of moorings to grab, or you can anchor. It is fun to sail into, but you won’t feel isolated. The Island Store is within walking (1 mile) distance. Some evenings the windjammers will serenade you with Amazing Grace on the bagpipes, others, young girls selling fresh tollhouse cookies will come around after dinner in a clumsily rowed inflatable.
North Haven the marina/boatyard (JL Browns?) is able to fulfill most cruising needs and rents moorings.
Perry Creek: grab an empty private mooring or anchor, take your dinghy exploring of to the head of the creek. This is a very beautiful spot, protected, with quiet waters. There will be other boats but you will feel more isolated than at Pulpit Harbor.
Winter Harbor & Seal Bay Both popular spots but I like them better than Pulpit Harbor which is also usually crowded. The Protection is excellent and you will see seals.
The Basin: not for the faint at heart and figure the tides if you go in, there is water in the Basin but the entrance is tough unless you go in at slack tide.
Hurricane island: this used to be a thriving community with hundreds of stone cutters living and working, very little trace left of the town, it is fun to walk the trails. Outward Bound used to maintain a couple of guest moorings. Great day stop.
Brimstone Island: this is basically just a big rock out into the Atlantic off Vinalhaven. It is a great place to stop and look around, There is an incredible cobblestone beach made up of black volcanic rocks.
Deer Isle & Isle au Haut
Isle au Haut Thorofare: there are cheap self serve rental moorings right off the town dock. This is barely a town, but that is what I like about it. Walk to the store, or hike the Acadia trails to Mt. Champlain or to Long Pond for a swim.
Duck Harbor: My favorite place, the harbor only has room for a handful of boats, so get there early. The best short hike in the world is from the harbor up to the top of Duck Harbor Mountain.
Merchants Row/Deer island thorofare: there are too many pretty islands here to enumerate. Take your pick of great places to anchor overnight. I like the little channel between McGlathery and Round Island. The area is another favorite of the windjammer fleet and in late afternoon you are likely to have one sail in to anchor nearby. Do not miss this area. One caveat, Lobstermen out of Stonington will “wake” very early in the morning on their way to their pots
Mount Desert Island area
You could spend a whole summer exploring Blue Hill bay, Jericho Bay and all around MDI.
Plan a sail up Somes Sound on MDI, the East Coasts only major fjord is a must, it is breathtaking. A great and very protected anchorage is at Valley cove near the outer end of the sound, take a hike up Flying Mountain for the view.
Both Northeast and Southwest Harbor, are great boat towns, especially if you like looking at Hinckley boats.
Lunts Harbor on Frenchboro is a must, I love it for its beauty and isolation, the harbor is a throwback to earlier times in Maine. There are great hiking trails around the island.
Swans Island/Burntcoat Harbor is a pretty working harbor
Places to go on my futures list:
Mount Desert Rock: both to see it, and hopefully to see whales ( I had a rare close encounter with a small whale who bumped my boat on purpose off Camden, and I want to see more (but not more contact)).
Matinicus, Criehaven (Ragged island), and Matinicus Rock.
Cranberry Islands
Blue Hill
Schoodic Point and beyond
A couple of comments about the MDI area...
By:Todd D
Date: 1/5/2012, 1:59 pm
In Response To: Pen Bay/MDI area (JimF)
The Cranberries are nice. There are free town moorings at both Little and Great Cranberry islands. Little Cranberry is a better place to spend the night (much less rolly and a lot less traffic), but Great Cranberry is more pleasant to walk around on - some nice trails through the woods to pleasant coves, etc.
Somes Sound is a nice day sail when it is a bit cold because it is always warmer than outside the sound. In light air the tide is a factor. The wind in the sound is generally from the north or the south, so figure either on tacking a lot one way or motoring. Valley Cove is an OK anchorage, but the tide swirls through there and the bottom is very rocky so make sure your anchor is set well. Also Valley cove loses the sun early and cools off rapidly. I prefer it as a lunch stop to an overnight. A pleasant day is to run up Somes Sound and back then spend the night over at Little Cranberry. The next day run over to Great Cranberry, pick up a mooring and hike the island.
Northeast Harbor is nice if you like really crowded harbors. Southwest is a lot less crowded and the moorings are cheaper. Unless the wind is from the east, Southwest is very placid at night. The moorings out at Hinckley can also get lively in a northerly stronge than 15 knots, but further in the harbor it will be placid. There are 4-5 town moorings across from the Coast Guard as well as 6 Hinckley moorings on the Manset side about half way up the harbor that are placid unless it blows from the east.
Bar Harbor is a waste of tiome as a stop although it is very pretty to sail by. I prefer to stop in Sorento on the North side of Frenchmans Bay or to make Bar Harbor a day trip from Northeast or Southwest.
The west side of MDI (Blue Hill Bay has lots of interesting places to visit such as Blue Hill, Pretty Marsh, Sawyers Cove, etc.
Swans Island is nice. If you want the city atmosphere try Burntcoat Harbor. If you want solitude there are several nice anchorages in Mackeral Cove on the north side of Swans Island and Buckle Island is also very pleasant.
Frenchboro is also nice to visit. Lunts has very good lobster and lobster rolls. There are also lots of pleasant trails on the island. The harbor tends to fill up early in July and August so you generally need to be there before 2 PM to get a mooring. The cruising guides say you can anchor outside the harbor proper, but the tide runs really hard through there and I wouldn't do it. If Frenchboro is full, then it is only an hour over to Burnt Coat Harbor on Swans Island where there is plenty of room and better protection.
Mount Desert Rock is a nice run from MDI or Frenchboro. Figure on a 40+ mile day for the trip though. I have seen whales one of the three times I have been out there.
Different strokes...
By:DaveEvans
Date: 1/5/2012, 11:18 am
In Response To: Maine for the first-timer? (Larry - DH)
Larry,
I always dreamed of the overnight shoot to Maine. Put a lot more Pen Bay time into a two week cruise! Our sailing partners have never been interested, and they've been doing it for over two decades. Finally we made an overnight run in a friend's Sabre a couple of summers ago. We sailed 18 hours on one tack with all the stars to guide us. Awesome! But we found the on-and-off sleep pattern to be less fun. So we shall stick to our old harbor-hopping ways. If you have the crew to help (and then be discarded) it may be worth a try. Tom arrived after an overnight down with his two kids, all relaxed and refreshed. But then he's Young!
You do want to avoid unnecessary time-outs (unless you have time), so it's important to choose stops that don't require detours. P'town, for example, looks right on the rumb line, but in fact is a long loop in and out. Isles of Shoals is right in the way and Jewell Island lets you skim Casco Bay.
Our web pages (see link) have the harbors passed through since we've been doing this this century.
All the detours are off the straightline unfortunately.
By:Tom Young
Date: 1/5/2012, 1:53 pm
In Response To: Different strokes... (DaveEvans)
And the extra time adds up. I still can't decide what's the best way, probably because every trip is different. Last one going from Rockport harbor (dawn) to Onset(3:00pm or so) wasn't too bad, despite motoring nearly the entire way(except for a few of the wee hours when it's hard to keep stay awake). I think I'm more energized at the beginning of the trip.
Then again, Larrys boat has the potential to make great miles under sail and power. I've done Onset to Isle of Shoals in one shot, but that was a very long day arriving after dark.
No matter how I cut it, even Onset to Isle of Shoals to Monhegan, it's 3 days shot to get to Rockport(throw in P-town as I did last trip, and you're 4 days). The boat, and AP, and just me, hard to resist the overnight.
Then I'd change your plan, "a 10 or 12-day "window" to travel to Maine and back"
By:Tom Young
Date: 1/5/2012, 3:05 pm
In Response To: Yeah but we try not to push the miles (Larry - DH)
That gives you just enough time to get to Maine and back, and likely no more. If you go Onset to P-town, P-town to Biddeford, Bidderford to say Portland, Portland to say Penobscot Bay,...it's time to turn around, and those are all loooong days. Why bother?
You should try to allow yourself more time, I know how hard that can be.
One thing that we've done several times is I take the boat alone(or with the kids) overnight one way, and my wife follows with the car at a later time(call for an update). You might consider something like that which can give your wife and dog a break. It's an easy 5 hours to Boston from Penobscot Bay over the road.
It's about 150 NM from the CCC to western Penobscot bay, a good area to meet your wife and leave a car(Rockland, Camden, Rockport-free parking...). If you moved at 7 knots, that about 22 hours.
Now you've got some time left to sail and enjoy Maine.
Then, conceptually, Larry
By:SG
Date: 1/6/2012, 12:10 pm
In Response To: Yeah but we try not to push the miles (Larry - DH)
I think it's Onset to PTown, PTown to Marblehead, Marblehead to New Castle, New Castle to Boothbay, and BoothBay to Camden/Rockport/Rockland. That's 4 days up and 4 days back. If you're going to SW Harbor from Camden, it's two days there and two days back.
If you're going to enjoy Maine, I'd do what others have suggested: I'd make on the hops a longish one to MDI from either PTown or Jamestown.
There's a group that I've used to source sailors to join me on the passage portion - OPO. The usual situation is you have them as guests on the passages (you take care of the food and consumables as you would for most guests); and, they pay their transportation from the start and finish ports.
With your boat, I'd have you plus three and go from Onset to MDI in two days. Then I'd have your bride meet you in MDI with your kids. Spend a day together using the one-way rental car and see that GREAT ISLAND, provision the boat, etc. Then I'd spend a week or two touring Penobscot Bay and environs. Then you can head to Boothsbay from the Rockland-Rockport-Camden area. From there, without WEATHER, you make the hops down the coast. It's one long day to New Castle. After that, it's shorter hops.
A total of three weeks would be good first trip.
Provisioning at MDI (with a loaner or rental car) is great. You can pick-up a bit here and there along the way. Camden, if you stay at Wayfarer is easy with their loaner cars to provision with. Wentworth at New Castle has a similar marina with loaner cars and great places to provision if you stay. Those places are not inexpensive.
In between, you can either take moorings, anchor, or take slips. With the kids, spouse, and pet. I wouldn't underestimate the value of allowing some decompression that being able to "step ashore" and "wander around".
If it's just you and your spouse, then that still is important -- but depending on your frame of mind, not as essential.
EXCEPT for the fog, cold water, lobster pots, and rocks -- there is no nicer cruising location than Maine on the east coast. You really want to enjoy those areas and be flexible with the weather and your crews' emotional needs. If you push it in the fog and rain -- you'll completely change the experience.
Agree with Todd.
By:Al Schober
Date: 1/5/2012, 2:16 pm
In Response To: Maine for the first-timer? (Larry - DH)
Head for MDI, being sure to get up the sound to Soamesville. Stop at Frenchboro/Long Island on the way west.
Your time window is relatively short - you could spend the whole time in Penobscot Bay. You'll have to save the Jonesport area for the next trip.
For your list, Merchants Row off Stonington, Sand Cove on Marshall Island, go through Eggemoggin Reach (just to do it). I don't know that I'd take your tri into Camden inner harbor - it's kinda tight, but you could certainly do a pass-through - as I recall, the schooners go CCW. Do Tenants Hbr you last evening in Penobscot - have lobster at the Cods End (pick a rock out of the basket for opening the claws).
But, you've read our journals (I think). E-mail me if you haven't.
I've found that the start SW Harbour and move east, then south make sense.
By:SG
Date: 1/5/2012, 3:10 pm
In Response To: Maine for the first-timer? (Larry - DH)
We've found it worked well for us. It leaves you flexibility to move south when you're ready.
If you have a dog, you can get a one-way rental from Portland to Mount Desert Island (you'll have problem with intermediate point, I believe). Then you can use a loaner truck from a marina like Dysarts at SW Harbour to make the transfer.
Having the flexibility to move east and then south at yours and the weather's pace make a lot of sense.
Coming south, or going north (if you chose othersise), is easly done from Newcastle, to Marblehead, to PTown or Jamestown, and back through the Canal. With the weather, you can go from either Casco Bay or Boothbay to Newcastle (Portsmouth, NH) in a longish day. Then you have some greater choices moving south.
If your dog can last 7-8 hours on the boat, you should be okay except for the hop across to MDI.
unfortunately, your schedule is dictating your route
By:Jerry Levy
Date: 1/5/2012, 5:03 pm
In Response To: Maine for the first-timer? (Larry - DH)
The following is REALLY pushing it so you might want to condense on this itinerary:
If you start at Onset, head to P-Town (1 day)
I usually go from P-Town to Gloucester (and then Isle of Shoals and usually Peaks Island) but I have more time than you. So, I'd say
go from P-Town to MDI (SW Harbor or Somesville). Problem is that you might have to wait for a good forecast for that. (Days 2-3)
Relax and recover on MDI and take free bus (remainder of Day 3 and Days 4-5)
Head to the Eggomogin Reach. Stop brefly at the Wooden Boat School (and possibly Bucks Harbor where you can use the excuse of getting some
fuel to go ashore and stretch your legs). Pick up a YC mooring at Castine, look around, and then take the boat to Smith Cove. (Day 6)
Go to Belfast. Spend night there or head possibly to Warren Island (if you do the latter arrive early enough to pick up a free mooring) (Day 7)
Head towards Fox Islands Thorofare (possibly with a stop for a couple of hours at Camden) and go to Perry Creek or Carver Cove or (several
other places like - if you are adventurous - Seal Harbor) ). En route you could stop at North Haven for a couple of hours. (Day 8)
Head towards Rockland and have lobster at the Rockland Cafe (Day 9)
On to Tenants Harbor (Day 10)
Back to P-Town (Days 11-12).
Then Onset (Day 13 out of a 12 day window!) I suppose you could go straight from Tenants to Onset but that would REALLY be pushing it -
and you'd need to have the current with you in the CCC.
Innumerable variations on the above are possible. Frankly, I wouldn't want to do his - I like to linger.

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