three days at the boat this weekend and I had to learn a bunch of new things.

In-mast furling, in theory, is exactly what we needed to get back on the water. In practice on Saturday it did nothing for us. The main jammed with only a couple of feet rolled out so controlling the main from the cockpit did not work as advertised. Not having to climb up on the coach roof to wrestle with a main sail? Nahhh, that didn't work out either. That is exactly what I had to do, which did nothing either, it would not budge no matter how much I tugged on it. I ended up winching the main out and winching it back in while the Admiral kept us pointed into the wind. Yesterday afternoon was spent researching the spar builders manual.....you know when you first see something and you say to yourself, "gee, that's not right"......I looked at the boat, beam on, sitting in the slip last week and said "gee, that mast doesn't look right". Sure enough, it's not right. The spar builder calls for a rake of 16" from plumb. It's possible that might be right, but I think it is more than that. They also call for a 1"-1 1/2" pre-bend, I would estimate the pre-bend to be wayyyy more than that. "Caution: Not following the rig tuning specs will cause the furling mechanism to bind up." It does.

The electrical system is now sorted out. The quality control folks at Hunter Marine need a talking to. The AC panel is wired wrong which somehow did not end up being an insurance claim. One breaker on the front of the panel is labeled "water heater", it does not control the water heater. I was troubleshooting Friday and Sunday. Friday, while flushing the fresh water system I found that the water heater was hot even though the water heater switch was off. Fortunately it is full of something (more on this later) so did not burn out or catch fire. There are also breakers located on the backside of the AC panel, one of those is marked "microwave" (which does not work) and "outlets". I have never, ever seen a two-sided electrical panel, don't know why you would even do such a thing. Anyhow, trying to troubleshoot I decided to turn off the breaker marked microwave and come back in the morning. Sure enough, the next day the hot water tank was cool to the touch. Hmmm, I wonder? I flipped on the "water heater" switch and the microwave and stove top powered up. The panel is labeled exactly as shown in the owner's manual so it is the wiring, not the labels. Breakers are the same amps so I'm going to re-label them correctly.

I know that the PO did no maintenance on the boat himself, so he must have had a 500lb gorilla winterize the fresh water system. I think the gorilla was also paid by the number of gallons of pink antifreeze he used. Every faucet and sprayer is broken in some fashion. Either the sprayer is broken, knobs are broken or in the case of the transom shower, both are broken. You couldn't tell until the water tank was filled with enough water to pressurize the system. Replacements are on order. I tried draining a bit of liquid out of the hot water tank, it looks like it is filled with anti-freeze. The hot water side of the faucets do not work (new problem to solve) so I couldn't tell by flushing them.

Wine glass rack went up without issues.