We were tempted to hang around Alicetown for another morning, watching the locals work on their Junkanoo floats across the street from the bar. But Alabaster Bay was tugging on my shirt sleeve, whispering "Come on, you know you love me best." We dropped the mooring, piling the ungainly pennant carefully atop the mooring ball, and headed back out through the narrow, steep-walled opening.

Back home, when Someone mentions the word Bahamas, the first image that pops into my head is not Raccoon Cay or Black Point or Conception or any other favorite haunt but Alabaster Bay with it's perfect crescent shaped public beach and it's turquoise waters over thick anchor-holding sand. Even the little and very attractive resort at one end of the beach: Coco di Mama is a pleasure where there are no other houses. This is quintessential Bahamas at its best. We spent the longest night of the year here, braving 30 knot winds that we never felt, being tucked up close to the beach. In the unexpected quiet, we listened to CDs of Gregorian chants and medieval Christmas hymns that seemed perfect for the solstice.

Coco di Mama is closed to the public until further notice - no explanation given. The manager did, however, give us the password to their Internet site - no charge. A little more research brought news that this small, beautiful, charming resort has been taken over by Marriott which is planning a "beautiful expansion." I fear the worst.

Merry Christmas, all.