Many just carefully apply the tape by keeping themselves a few inches from the "point" of attack. They have a knack to dealing with the application without any tools.

Some use a plastic "burnishing tool" (like a clay sculptor). As the carefully roll out the take they gently make sure that the edge of it matches the toe rail. You need to use the right "blue" tap that allows for just enough "curving".

Other, use an Exacto (not a carpet) knife.

I think that a blade is the wrong way to go unless you're a plastic surgeon who likes to work on someone's eyelids,
bent-over with your head down and your ass up in the air. The blade does no good if you get on either the deck or the teak. In the case of the teak, you can fill it with varnish -- otherwise...

I really like the varnished look of the Sabre teak. It doesn't have a LOT of teak. But the toe rails do require attention. Many years ago, when we had our Sabre 42 (Hull #4), the Sabre's really didn't come varnished. If they would have sealed the bottom of the toe rail with West Epoxy to seal them, then they wouldn't have wicked-up moisture. After I noted this to the President of Sabre at a boat show in about 1989, he said that was a great idea and assured me that they would change their practices. Since then, I'm not sure they always did this.

They weren't too bad as they came -- but occasionally, we had to take down a few spots back to bare wood and build-back-up if the varnish got "popped-up" with moisture below. In those cases, when we repaired those sections, we sometimes used clear epoxy on the bare wood before we built-back-up that area with varnish. Sometimes that helped.