Jon,
Our first impressions after a brief visit (our first) to the town is very favorable. There are many old abandoned houses as there are throughout the Bahamas but also a lot of recent construction/renovation. Everyone is very friendly, in a curious/helpful sort of way where tourists are a novelty, not in a customer service sort of way. The cultural center is worth a visit. Check out Teresa's conch stand across from the beach. She made us a conch salad while we waited with conch that her husband just cleaned, slicing the vegetables, squeezing the citrus and adding however much of the hot finger pepper we wanted. Haven't tried it year (it'll be our happy hour treat) but it sure looks good. Drop a hook there the next time you're passing by with a SE wind.
Chris and Sally