Well, here we are back in mainland San Carlos, and must admit it looks good after several weeks on the "frontiera". I am convinced that the Baja is the real Mexico or what's left of it. Like the old days in Alaska, you still can do anything there you are big enough, fast enough, or smart enough to do (I am,unfortunately,no longer any of the three). There is the greatest cast of characters left on the planet there, and a great story in every one of them. I hated to leave behind the French bakery and the great shrimp taco stands of Santa Rosalia but man does not live by bread alone ...or shrimp tacos for that matter.

It again took nearly fifteen hours of night sailing to get back, but this time the winds were fair and the seas (though a bit lumpy) were kind, providing one of our all time great sailing passages. The Baja is magical under sail at night, with no light pollution to discourage the stars from settling right down around you ...a long con-trail of glowing phosphorescence boils silently off the stern while any thing disturbing the water creates it's own little nuclear light show. Twice on separate watches Terrel and I both experienced the overwhelmingly fishy odor of whales blowing off to windward. The females calve here and lie on the surface at night to nurse their calves. It is easy to see why so many become enamored of the Baja and return year after year regardless of age or finances. We will be here another month ...or till it stops snowing in CO