We took a land trip across to Magdalena Bay with Mar y Adventuras from La Paz. The gray whale experience was incredible. Many wanted to be close to us and seemed to delight in doing bubble bursts right under and next to us, exhaling spray on us, and generally lolling about. On the rolliest day, they still got close, remarkable "seamanship" to maneuver 20 tons in such close quarters without hurting us (or them).