Those 'new' buildings were erected inside the ancient -out of commission- amphatheatre, the walls still clearly visible outside. Through the centuries, it served as an open market with merchants on the lower levels. Our tour guide, a native Luccan explained that when she was growing up(60's) it was the low rent district. Pretty nasty. Only lately have some of the residences been upgraded.

Typical of Lucca, the exteriors will remain austere due to the ancient 'luxury tax' that was imposed centuries ago in rebellion to the opulence displayed in Rome-especially that of the Vatican. No surprise Lucca was on the escape route for non catholics, fleeing Rome, that wanted to keep their heads on their shoulders. Lucca sent many escaping heretics onto places like Switzerland.

Lucca is a fascinating place. Sort of a Venice-with walls, between mountains.