- I did a similar job on my Alberg 35 in the mid '90s. The Alberg 35 owners website used to have a fairly complete descrption of the job including some photos I sent them. I don't know if the site is still up.
Basically, I built the new rudder of two 3/4" sheets of marine ply to duplicate the 11/2' thickness of the original mahogany rudder. The pieces were fastened together with bronze screws and resorcinol glue. I then "streamlined" and faired the new rudder with a belt sander and a template to insure that it was symmetrical.

- I cut a "V" in the leading edge, filled it in with thickened epoxy, then laid the old bronze rudder stock in the filled "V". I used 3/8 bronze flat headed bolts to replace the old drift bolts that were too badly eaten up to replace. The bolts were bought from Jamestown as 14" flat headed bolts, then recut and re-threaded to correct length (Each one was a different length). I made up a drilling jig and drilled the holes for each bolt, ending in pockets I cut in the rudder about 2" from the trailing edge, then drove in the bolts, installed washers and nuts, tightened them down and filled the pocket holes with thickened epoxy.

- I also modified the shape of the rudder to add more "meat" at the lower end, to reduce weather helm and provide more area.

- Because the propellor aperature cutout seemed to be the weakest point in the rudder, I routed out channels 1/8 deep by 2" wide above an below the aperature. The channels ran aft and joined to form a "V" close to the trailing edge of the rudder. I used epoxy to glass carbon fibers into the channels.

-After fairing the new rudder, I saturated it with West Epoxy added a layer of trixial fiberglass cloth. sanded, added a layer of dynel for a smooth finish, rolled on another coat of West Epoxy, and the rudder was ready to paint.

- I have some photos somewhere, and if you're interested can try to find them.

- Hope this has been of some help.

Ken Jacobsen