See Photo which shows my teak one best. As you may recollect from building my half model of Passage, I did that job. If that's what you're thinking, I can say that in 25 years of exsistance of that deck...it failed in several places. This was a small deck job and two of us worked on it. It is pretty much nonstop once you get going in my experience. 1/8" teak resawed from lumber. Acetoned carefully, laid in carbon filled epoxy on an epoxy sealed/sanded base.

Not too many years ago I read where some feller with some affiliation with Gougeons wrote a piece in Epoxyworks about his experience with this kind of deck. He said IIRC that in the tropics his did not hold up under the heat.

Even with 1/8" "veneer" there was more movement than the epoxy between the seams could hold apparently. I say apparently as it is a bit hard to tell after the fact. I did while I had the boat go back and drip/squeegee fill any noticeable slight gaps as they occurred in August(s). Clearly the owner that let Passage sit for fifteen years did not and pretty much the entire deck was rotted and had to be replaced by a new owner still rebuilding the boat.

With Ipe' I'd say I would not do that job as there is MUCHO oil in Ipe' and it would be almost impossible to get the clean surface you'd need. My two bits worth.

What I had thought, Todd, was that IF and when I did another boat deck wherein I wanted bare wood'ish surface decking, I'd do it out of some commonly used cold molding veneer like Western Red Cedar or Atlantic White(?) Cedar or H. Mahog or somesuch. Less oily woods with a proven record for adherence in molding. As well, I'd thought that I might do the deck withOUT carbon filled epoxy seams, just in effect butt the wood cold molding style. Vast expanse of bare wood, good for the toesies to walk/grip on. Here again, just some thoughts.