The process went more or less as follows.

1. Put the keel on a hydraulic jacking stand. Not all that hard since the keel only weighed 1,600 lbs.

2. Jack the boat up so we could get the keel under it and then level the boat fore and aft and side to side.

3. Put the keel bolt template on the bottom of the boat and then drill the holes for the keel bolts.

4. Dryfit the keel to check the alignment of the keel bolt holes with the keel bolts and to make sure the bottom of the hull provided a good mating surface for the top of the keel. Dryfitting the keel involved adjusting the bolt oles a bit to allow for the fact that not all the keel bolts were perfectly perpendicular to the top of the keel and a couple of the 6" long holes weren't perfectly aligned.

5. Doing a bit of glass work on the bottom of the hull to get a good mating surface for the top of the keel.

6. Liberally coat the top of the keel with 5200, jack the keel into place and snug the keel bolts down. After the 5200 cured, the keel bolts were given their final tightening to proper torques.

The hardest part of the process was moving the keel under the boat to get it into alignment. The most dramatic part was the initial dryfit of the keel. Because of small misalignments between the keel bolts and the holes the bolts bound a bit and we actually lifted the boat off the cradle a 1/4" or so as we jacked the keel up. Each time the boat lifted off the cradle it would get to a point where the weight of the hull was enough to overcome friction between the bolts and the holes and the hull would drop back onto the cradle