From the backside of the breaking waves, it's view that really isn't instructive.

Secondly, a wave of swell of 5' means with a 9' (stagnant water) depth means that you go from 4' to 13' -- and when you get deposited in the trough, you are being dropped.

The view as they came in was pretty scarry. The result wasn't as bad as it might have been.

I guess that's why the Polynesians had outriggers and their little boats drew about 18" to 24"...