if you insist on a fin with a very narrow, very short attachment, there are still ways to do it that will destroy the boat before the keel comes off. They aren't expensive methods, either. Fins on boats of this type will typically have only 6" or so of bearing sideways, necessitating a single row of bolts - which means that there is only 3" between the bolts and the keel root edge. I saw a great number of these at Mars when my keel was cast. Fore and aft they are inherently much stronger because the root chord is many times the root width. Now hold that keel out at a 30 degree angle and drop it off of waves for 15 years. The sort of engineering that held a lead shoe on a long stub keel will not cut it in these conditions - and yet the same structural methods and shade tree engineering are being used. When was the last time you heard of the wings falling off an airliner? Do you think, on an airliner, that they would just bolt the root rib to the fuselage with a line of undersize bolts down the middle? And yet on a boat, Farr and Beneteau (and many others) think this perfectly adequate.

The engineering to prevent this has existed for many decades. The stresses have been measured many decades ago. This is honestly not rocket science, more like senior year engineering student stuff.

There is no excuse for the keel coming off without the hull being totally destroyed - just as it would be on a molded long keel. These pictures, becoming numerous, of an intact hull floating upside down with the keel cleanly severed are sickening.