zzzzzzzzzzzz........

Here's the only photo I can find of my old one (I've destroyed it and forgot to take the 'before' - as usual). I assume this is the original set up from 1961 when the boat was delivered with a Graymarine gas engine. Then a few changes in 1974 with a replacement Nissan diesel, but using what was there. A typical old boat train wreck.

I couldn't find any design help on the web so I decided to try 'intuitive' design. Working on paper first, I came up with this plan that made sense in my head.

The tachometer - like the boats engine - takes the center of the panel.

2" gauges - upper tier - Temperature and Oil Pressure. I've installed this engine myself (2007), so I 'see' it in the boat. On the port side (looking forward from the helm), is the water cooled exhaust manifold and coolant reservoir. On the starboard side is the oil pump, filter and dipstick.

2" gauges - lower tier. The Ampere gauges (I hope Mainesail doesn't see this ) Gauges coincide with batteries: On the port side is the engine starting battery. On the starboard side is the house bank batteries.

Switches: Lower/center group-starting. Ignition key in the middle. Start - from left/port - glow plug solenoid push switch. Finish on right/starboard-fuel STOP solenoid push switch.

Port group of 5 vertical toggle switches(have to buy them): Rarely using running lights, I've never been able to intuitively flip the old switches. So this was easy to lay out(for my brain):

Top of the mast down: Top switch 1-Mast Head, 2-Steaming light, 3-Spreader lights, 4-Running lights, 5-engine panel lights.

Starboard group of 3 pull knob switches: These old pull switches look good on an older boat.

Bottom Pull - Alternator power(I like this disconnect even though I have a start delay on the regulator)
Middle Pull - Alternator High/Low (another personal preference on my belt burning Balmar alternator - it simply engages the overheat setting of 50% output )
Top - There for balance. I'll find a need for it.

At the top of the new panel, I have space for another 2" gauge(I can't imagine a need ), the 12 volt receptacle(I need to pick one up to see the hole size) and space for a few more switches, if needed.

The Lexan panel worked out well enough. It will scratch(the bottom that looks like scratches is a reflection from the light I had pointed at the panel), but I had the scrap. I've decided to wire it as fully as I can - in the shop - leaving pigtails that I'll connect to the wiring harness on the boat. The clock is ticking more loudly,...