Cruising Sailors Forum Archive

2" Ipe delivered-- $9.50.

That's hard to resist. I've done much research online. I've run into some of the caveats; hard to work with, tough on tools, very heavy, questionable adhesion, splinters, to name a few.

I spoke to a boat builder that only had reservations about the adhesion. He recommended trying some but I wonder if Charlie has experience with Ipe and epoxy? The boat builder said there are 2 schools on wiping Teak with acetone(one does, one doesn't). He's from the rough it up with course paper school, and has no problems.

Some problems don't apply to my use. I don't have any curves to work with, fastening with pan head screws through oversize holes should be no problem with splitting(a full countersink after dry-full depth epoxied plug).

Because it is cheaper, I'd likely quarter saw the flat sawn 1 1/2" planks on a table saw with a thin carbide ripping blade despite the extra waste over bandsawing. That sawn face would be what would be bedded in epoxy. Waste factor will be pretty big on this project so having plenty of raw material on hand, to pick through, would be a bonus(unlike Teak where I'd likely order miserly).

Splinters: I've read some reports of that. Yet for residential decking(huge industry), I don't see that complaint. I haven't seen problems with Ipe decks exposed to the weather, it's very weather resistant. I would be careful picking through stock that looked like it had splinter problems. Unlike teak which wears unevenly between growth rings-which gives it such superior grip-Ipe looks like it wears more evenly. Denser grain by the looks(and the specs). It may be a bit more slippery than teak. That won't be such and issue in my application(although I don't want a slick cockpit?)

On the plus side. Most research shows Ipe is extremely weather resistant, equal to teak, or better. It's also harder than teak so that sounds like a plus for the cockpit area. The sole and seat tops get tremendous footwear. The weight isn't so much of an issue as this is really a veneer- 1/2"-and only the cockpit. A solid deck of Ipe (1 1/2") would be a weight issue.

The boat builder also added several boats with teak substitute decks. At least one gets less desirable traits than Ipe(Iroko I think), yet it's performing very well and is owned by a boat builder. In the end this guy added, "I couldn't afford teak either",....

I have the Ipe option worked out for later this winter. In the meantime, I'm still looking.

BTW, I can get Red Meranti delivered here for even less. Not suitable for decking(rot prone unfinished), but looks like an option for structural parts of this project. Anybody use Red Meranti?

Here's a solid teak deck, that isn't, teak. But I can't remember the species of tropical hardwood.

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